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Watercolor tips
Some Quick tips on Watercolor Illustration I start out with a sketch in my sketchbook- Once I feel it is "finished" I'll re-draw it onto a sheet of Arches Watercolor Paper. Use a 2h or h pencil to ensure you do not make dark marks onto the watercolor paper (unless that's the look you're going for!) The alternative, if you have a light-box- you can trace the original sketch onto the watercolor paper:
place the sketch under the watercolor paper- tape it down to hold both the sketch and the watercolor paper in place(Use artist's tape- not masking tape nor scotch tape!)
-And trace your sketch. Next, tape your watercolor paper with your traced sketch onto a clean table-surface. I begin by lightly inking the drawing; leaving some lines in pencil and outlining only the elements I want to emphasize. Let ink dry completely, or you may end up with a smudge! Then, I take a magic rub eraser, and remove some (not all) of the pencil lines. I leave some in; Then proceed with Frisket- a rubbery substance that is tricky to use at first, but once you get the hang of it it is very useful.
Areas that I want to keep "pure white" I add Frisket to.
I use an old brush, and always mix a bit of water into the Frisket on the side to get it the right consistency-
(If it's too thick- It will tear the paper upon removal- If it's too thin, it will absorb into the paper or let watercolor through.) Next, apply washes of color- going from the broadest areas down to the tiniest details. Depending on which ink you used to ink the drawing, sometime the lines will bleed- this is good if you are trying to achieve a more earthy or old fashioned look. If not, then make sure you use waterproof ink, such as Winsor Newton. Make sure to change the water you use to clean your brushes as soon as it turns cloudy- this helps tremendously to keep the painting bright and not Muddied. I usually place one overall light wash of one neutral or earth color (Such as Yellow ochre, or burnt sienna) over the painting to level out the tone- Sometimes the whole painting, other time just large selected areas. Let the paint dry somewhat in between Layers to prevent too much bleeding of colors. After you feel there are enough layers of color, let dry COMPLETELY before removing the Frisket. Using a RUBBER CEMENT ERASER- "Pik-Up" brand works the very best. Gentle and slowly pick up the Frisket, take your time to prevent any paper ripping. There are many ways and processes to use when creating watercolor illustration- you can create as many layers as you want-or any style! But importantly, the paint must let the paper shine through; meaning- watercolor is meant for translucent layers of paint- If you want opaque- then use gouache instead. Watercolor is meant to be applied in thin layers, and the white of the paper is meant to shine through. Some Great Examples would be Sulamith Wulfing, Beatrix Potter, Chiho Saito, and Jesse Wilcox Smith- Just to name a few. I hope these tips inspire you in your pursuit of watercolor illustration! Materials List- Products that I've found to work best
after much trial and error with other products: Magic Rub eraser
Light Box
2h or H pencil
Winsor newton Peat brown ,or Walnut ink
pen with nib
Luma Concentrated watercolors
Winsor Newton Brand Watercolors- (Essentials: Aliz. Crimson, Cad. Red,Ultramrine blue,Prussian blue, Yellow Ochre,Aureolin yellow)
Frisket Arches 150-200 or 300Lb. hot press or cold press paper
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Contributor's Note
This is a brief summary and glimpse into the techniques I use to create watercolor illustrations. It is not a set standard, but one I've developed and discovered to be useful and good in my own body of work. I hope it provides some helpful information to the aspiring watercolor illustrator or manga style Illustrator.
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Jerry's Artarama- Discounted art supplies
Watercolor illustration using the forementioned techniques
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